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A microneedling device (MN) is a therapeutic modality used in dermatology. It induces a wound-healing cascade through physical trauma from needle penetration, causing minimal damage to the epidermis. MN enhances the absorption of essential topical therapies through the thick stratum corneum.
In recent years, MN has seen increased use due to its simplicity, cost-effectiveness, and excellent tolerance. Its capability to target localized disease areas has prompted numerous studies investigating its potential for treating inflammation, dyschromia, and photodamage.
This article delves into how microneedling works, its benefits, and key considerations to help you grasp the science behind this rejuvenating procedure.
Brief History of a Microneedling Device
The concept dates back to year 1995 when Orentreich and Orentreich introduced "subcision," a minor surgical procedure used to treat depressed cutaneous scars and wrinkles. Also known as subcutaneous incisional surgery, it involves hypodermic needles to induce wound healing in scars.
In 2006, Dr. Desmond Fernandes produced the first microneedling product, which evolved into the modern Dermaroller.
How Derma Rollers Trigger Skin Renewal
Microneedling stimulates skin renewal, and to fully understand how it works, you need to grasp the natural process of skin regeneration. The skin continuously renews itself by shedding and replacing old cells with new ones. This process includes several key stages:
Epidermis
- The outermost layer of the skin.
- Acts as a protective barrier.
- Includes the stratum corneum, which is made up of dead skin cells.
Dermis
- Located beneath the epidermis.
- Provides structural support to the skin.
- Contains collagen, elastin fibers, blood vessels, and other vital components.
Wound Healing Response
- Activated when the skin is injured or wounded.
- Involves inflammation, tissue regeneration, and remodeling.
- Essential for skin renewal and healing.

The natural wound-healing cascade begins when platelets and neutrophils are recruited to the site. It then releases growth factors such as TGF-alpha, TGF-beta, and platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF). This process ultimately leads to collagen deposition by fibroblasts.
What's Next for Microneedling Device - Derma Rollers & Derma Stamps
Emerging Applications in Scar Treatment
Another emerging field of study is its applicability in treating scars across various ethnic groups.
One trial performed by Dogra et al. evaluated the use of MN for treating atrophic acne scars in Asian populations. On an objective of 18 points, the participants’ assessments of their scars reduced from 11.73 to 6.5 following five MN treatments. Hence, indicating significant improvement.
In a study involving patients with darker pigmented skin, the effectiveness of MN combined with glycolic acid peels was assessed in 30 Indian patients with atrophic box-type and rolling scars accompanied by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Patients received either MN only or MN in conjunction with 35% glycolic acid peels. The combined approach significantly improved skin texture, scarring, and a reduction in PIH compared to MN alone (p = 0.001).
Hair Restoration
MN is believed to mprove blood flow to hair follicles, stimulate stem cells in the dermal papilla, as well as gather growth factors and signaling pathways that induce hair restoration.
Dhurat et al. discovered that combining microneedling with minoxidil worked better than using minoxidil alone for treating 100 men with androgenetic alopecia (AGA). Over 12 weeks, half of the participants received the treatment along with 5% minoxidil lotion. About 80% of these men experienced moderate to significant hair regrowth, and 82% reported more than 50% improvement in their hair growth.
Wound Healing
Derma roller for face, for example, is also thought to induce normal wound healing by breaking collagen strands in the superficial dermis and stimulating collagen synthesis immediately under the epidermis. This mechanism guides the use of MN in treating scars of various etiologies.
Hypertrophic Scar Treatment
Aust et al. demonstrated that microneedling is a valuable option for burn patients with hypertrophic scars. In their study, 16 patients with post-burn scars underwent MN treatment following a 4-week regimen of topical vitamins A and C to boost collagen production.
Patients reported greater satisfaction with their scars, with their visual analog scale (VAS) scores improving from an average of 4.5 before treatment to 8.5 after one to four sessions, combined with ongoing use of vitamins A and C.
Biopsies taken after one year revealed increased collagen and elastin in the treated scars.
Microneedling Device — The Future of Skincare

MN studies today are case reports and small trials. We need larger, well-controlled studies to confirm its effectiveness for more than just cosmetic purposes and to establish it as a reliable treatment for various skin conditions.
Further research is also necessary to understand how it works, especially for hair loss and pigmentation issues. The benefits might go beyond just improving the delivery of treatments to the skin.
Aither Beauty supports research that demonstrates microneedling's role in collagen production and overall skin health. We aim to be your go-to resource for the latest news and insights in derma treatments.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Often Should You Replace Your Microneedle Roller?
Needle Length |
Recommended Replacement Frequency |
0.25 mm |
Every 3-6 months |
0.5 mm |
Every 6-12 months |
1.0 mm |
Every 6-12 months |
1.5 mm |
Every 6-12 months |
2.0 mm |
Every 3-6 months |
The guidelines mentioned above are based on industry best practices and user experiences. However, it's always best to consult the manufacturer's instructions for your particular microneedle roller for the most accurate and specific advice.
How to Clean Your Microneedle Derma Roller
- Rinse the roller under warm, running water to remove residue immediately after use.
- Prepare a disinfectant solution.
- Soak the microneedle roller in the solution for about 5 minutes.
- Use a brush and delicately scrub the needles if there's stubborn residue.
- Place the roller on a clean towel and let it air dry.
- Store the roller in its protective case to protect it from dust/damage.
Author Information:
Review of applications of microneedling in dermatology
George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences, Washington, DC, USA
Department of Dermatology, The George Washington Medical Faculty Associates, Washington, DC, USA
Correspondence: Alison Ehrlich, Department of Dermatology, The George Washington University Medical Faculty Associates